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  The Dappled Beaches Of Bicol 
Lifestyle, Food & Travelby: Edith Batalla

Bicol's remarkable natural attractions including its majestic volcano, spectacular beaches and even the world's biggest and smallest fishes make it one of the country's interesting destination.

"Curangon Island. It's all beach, white,'' I replied when my sister asked where I'd been that afternoon.

Incredulity and envy played alternately on her face (she would have wanted to come along!) ''How can an island be all beach? What do you mean?''
''If I had my way, I'd call it NOW YOU SEE IT, NOW YOU DON'T,'' I said. ''We were just lucky we went there during low tide so we saw it. It's white because it's sun-bleached crushed corals, not sand.''

Curangon is about 300 sqm. during low tide; during high tide only its top remains about 50 sqm. And the view! Daragang Magayon was standing right in front of us! From the shore of Malinao it's only 10 minutes by boat. From Tabaco or Tiwi, only 20 minutes.

''It's a shoal,'' my other sister butted in. This was February 23, 2004, the first of a four-day adventure in the beaches of Bicol. I was with a group of photojournalists and a model. The visit was arranged by the ever-energetic Director Maria ''Nini'' Ong-Ravanilla of DOT-V.

Early morning of Day 2 we surveyed the black beach of Sogod, Bacacay, Albay. In the mainland of Albay, particularly the northeastern coasts, the beaches are fine and BLACK because the sand comes from the bowels of the earth - no less! - spewed out by Mayon Volcano. This kind of beach spans the whole length of the coastal towns of Tiwi, Malinao, Tabaco, Bacacay, and Sto. Domingo, including Legazpi City.

You want firmer muscles? Younger-looking skin? You want to be relieved of arthritis? Burrow in the black sand on early mornings as you watch the sunrise. A medical research has confirmed the therapeutic benefits of black sand.

We spent the rest of Day 2 in Misibis, this time a cream beach, in Cagraray Island. It's all crushed corals accented at the far end by huge petrified coal hillocks. From Sto. Domingo we took the highway overlooking Albay Gulf then at the RORO Pier in Sula we took a flat boat that ferried us across the 100-meter distance and then we hopped into a vintage jeepney that brought us to Misibis Beach. We were treated along the way with beautiful vistas of lush forests and panoramic mountaintop views of Albay Gulf and the neighboring islands of Batan and Rapu-Rapu.

Day 3 brought us to Sorsogon City, just an hour from Legazpi. Mrs. Cecilia Duran who owns Fernando's Hotel in Sorsogon brought us to her daughter's resort in nearby Bacon Beach, a long stretch of ''delicious'' cream ''spiced'' by talisay trees along the shore. (See related story?) From this point we could see Cagraray and its neighboring islands across Albay Gulf.

After a sumptuous meal and some pictorials we headed for Prieto Diaz. In an intersection we were bumped by a speeding jeepney and in the hullabaloo that ensued, a loud voice drowned out all the others.

''There's a corpse in our jeep and we're catching the boat for Samar!''

''We're catching'' I started to counter but held back my words for their seeming pettiness in comparison with the life-and-death situation of the other party, ''the sunset in the mangrove forest!'' The words didn't even escape my lips.

The melee over, we drove fast as the sun was sinking fast. When we got to Sabang Beach in Prieto Diaz, the sun indulged us with a last wink and with the light of its remaining rays we explored the swampy shore left by the low tide. A large group of egrets shared with us the far end of the marsh but they wouldn't allow us to get near. As we advanced with our cameras, they retreated.

The mangrove forests of Prieto Diaz, which received an award in 1988 from United Nations Agency for International Development (UNAID) for excellent management of coastal resources, is a wide expanse of fish sanctuary with alleys between the undergrowth enough for paddle boats to pass through. Visitors who explore the area in the early mornings or afternoons are treated to the peace and quiet of the watery forests whose silence is broken only by the swish of the paddles, the occasional chirping of birds and the cooing of other mangrove creatures.

Our last stop for the day was Rizal Beach in Gubat, Sorsogon. It was already dark when we arrived. We were lulled to sleep by the sound of the lashing waves as the hotel was close to the shore.

On Day 4 we went to Donsol, Sorsogon which is an hour by car from Gubat. In less than 2 hours that we cruised Donsol Bay before lunch, we saw 3 whale sharks! The group that went out to sea ahead of us said they saw 20 whale sharks. I don't know if they were not bluffing but if it were me, I wouldn't have the disposition to make a count, what with the excitement of watching all those huge creatures (bigger than our boat!) feed on tiny krill. Three in our group of 7 went down into the water and really got near the gentle spotted giants. We had lunch in Woodland Resort, a quiet seaside coconut grove with cottages.

The trip from Donsol to Legazpi was a breeze. In 40 minutes we were in Legazpi to browse in a pili nut confectionery shop for items to bring home. Then we proceeded to Cagsawa Ruins, the church that was buried by Mayon's eruption almost 2 centuries ago, to watch the kissing scenes of Daragang Magayon and her lover Ulap (Cloud). Legend has it Mayon Volcano rose from the grave of a beautiful maiden (Daragang Magayon) whose love affair with her true love ended in tragedy. Now that they are free, they kiss even if (or because!) we're looking. That's why sometimes Mayon's tip is covered with clouds.
As the sun bid goodbye to Mayon, we did, too. Then we went to Sogod, Bacacay, Albay (our home for the past 4 days) for dinner with our gracious host, Congresswoman Krisel Lagman-Luistro of the first district of Albay. We had fresh seafood and pili.

Gosh, Bicol is paradise!

--------------------------------------------------
Philippine Department of Tourism
447 Sutter Street, Ste. 507 San Francisco, CA 94108
Tel No. 415 9564060 Fax No. 415 9562093 Email-pdotsf@aol.com
www.wowphilippines.com.ph
--------------------------------------------------

Posted on Monday, June 27 @ 15:23:46 CDT by don
 
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